Prevent your storm-damaged tree from dying or falling and causing catastrophic property damages. By knowing how to help and repair your tree after suffering storm damages, you can potentially avoid the need for its removal.
fasttreeremovalatlanta.com gathered the following information on how to assess tree damage, treat a damaged tree, determine when a tree should be removed, and what you can do to prevent tree storm damage.
Assessing Tree Storm Damage
Before determining that your tree is beyond saving, assess the tree by asking the following six questions about the visible state of the tree.
Question #1 – Are the tree’s largest limbs damaged or broken?
Recommendation – If your tree has lost its largest or a majority of its limbs, it will likely not survive. Consider contracting a professional tree service to remove the tree.
Question #2 – Was the leader (the main upward extension of the trunk) lost in the storm?
Recommendation – This is a judgment call on your part. Your tree may survive losing its leader but will likely grow deformed and/or stunted.
Question #3 – Has the tree lost more than 30% of its crown?
Recommendation – When a tree loses more than 30% of its crown, there may not be enough foliage left to provide nourishment to it. Trees in this situation need to be closely monitored and removed if there is no evidence of recovery in the following growing season.
Question #4 – Looking at the damaged crown, can you identify enough healthy branches that can reconstitute both branch structure and crown foliage.
Recommendation – If the answer is yes, allow the tree several growing seasons to “fill out” the crown. If the tree declines and cannot rebound from its damages, you will know that the answer was no.
Question #5 – Is there extensive bark damage?
Recommendation – In cases where there are multiple areas of bark damage on the trunk and/or larger branches, disease and insect infestation are of significant concern. Read more about how you can treat bark damage at fasttreeremovalatlanta.com/handling-tree-bark-damage
Question #6 – Is your tree healthy?
Recommendation – If your tree was already in decline (from disease or infestation) before suffering storm damage, you should immediately request a tree hazard assessment. If the tree was healthy, thriving, and did not suffer extreme damages, it should recover if cared for after the storm.
Note: Before determining the fate of your tree, take into consideration that, after sustaining weather-related damages, healthy trees will typically go through a phase of rapid growth over several growing seasons.
Tip: If at any time you experience difficulty in determining whether or not to keep your tree, request a tree hazard assessment by a professional tree service.
How To Treat Tree Storm Damage
After any severe weather event, your tree(s) should be examined for damages. Once you have clearly identified damaged areas of your tree, consider the following:
- Prune damaged limbs back, at least one foot before the damage towards the trunk
- Prune the limb/branch off the tree if the damages are too close to the trunk
If there is significant structural damage to the trunk, including splits and/or cracks, a professional tree service should be hired to remove the tree. This type of damage is dangerous and holds the potential to quickly turn life-threatening.
Continue to promote the health of a damaged tree through:
- Seasonal Pruning
- Annual Inspections
Providing your tree with the means to thrive will help it overcome most weather damage on its own.
Emergency Tree Removal After Storm Damage
When severe weather leaves your tree swaying, leaning, caused windsnap (broken off at the trunk), or windthrow (uprooted and blown over), the tree should be removed from your property immediately. To learn more about or contract an emergency tree removal service, visit fasttreeremovalatlanta.com/emergency-tree-removal-atlanta
Note: For trees planted in rows, the emergency removal of any one of those trees may cause adjacent trees to lose their stability. Trees planted near one another will frequently use each other’s root plate for shared stability. Trees growing under these conditions must be professionally evaluated before their removal.
How To Prevent Tree Storm Damage
Controlling the impact of weather is possible in small scale scenarios. Objects and structures like walls, buildings, fences, hills, and shrubs can shield a tree from being severely damaged. It is when nature unleashes severe weather systems that a tree is truly put to the test.
Instead of relying on reactive treatment for damages, you can dramatically increase your tree’s strengths by being proactive and supporting its health before severe weather strikes. Consider the following measures to improve the vitality of your tree:
- Seasonal Pruning
- Annual Inspections
Note: These are the same measures you would use to promote a tree’s health after suffering significant weather-related damages.
Storm Damaged Tree
In this article, you discovered how to assess tree damages after a severe weather event, treat the damages, keep or remove the tree, and how to prevent weather damage.
By knowing how to identify and treat storm damage to trees, you can significantly extend their lifespan while substantially increasing their resistance.
Ignoring your trees after severe weather events creates the perfect environment for catastrophic property damages and potential fatalities.
Keep your evergreen trees from dying and spreading killer diseases. By knowing what to look for and how to stop evergreen tree diseases, you can save your trees or have them removed.
fasttreeremovalatlanta.com gathered the following information, symptoms, and treatment for pathogens that attack, weaken, and kill evergreen trees.
Diplodia (Sphaeropsis) Blight
Diplodia sapinea is the opportunistic fungal pathogen responsible for this disease. It affects various 2 and 3 needle pines and conifers. Especially susceptible are red pine, Mugo pine, Scots pine, Ponderosa pine, and Austrian pine. Diplodia blight infects trees of all ages, but higher infection rates are found among trees weakened by drought, infestation, and nutrient deficiencies.
Symptoms of Diplodia Blight – This disease is common among conifers, pines in particular. Signs that indicate a Diplodia blight infection include:
- Stunted, brown needles and stems
- Dying, tan-colored, young needles remain attached
- Pollen cones and mature needles appear uninfected
- Root collar rot in younger trees
- Root disease
- Small, black fruiting structures
In severe cases, entire branches can become infected. Resinous cankers may also form on the stems and trunk of the tree.
During late summer and fall, this disease produces pycnidia (fruiting bodies). Pycnidia are found near the base of needles, on scales of seed cones, or on tree bark. The presence of these fruiting structures, together with other symptoms, is compelling evidence that Diplodia blight has infected your tree.
Treatment of Diplodia Blight – Once a Diplodia blight infection is confirmed, the following management measures should be taken:
- Remove and destroy debris from the base of the tree
- Maintain grass and weeds below the tree trimmed low to the ground (increases airflow)
- Carefully prune out and destroy infected stems and branches (each fruiting structure may contain thousands of spores)
- Apply chemical controls beginning in the spring and every two weeks until new needle growth reaches full length.
If using chemical control, the following chemicals have shown to be quite effective in controlling this disease:
- Copper hydroxide with mancozeb
Prevention of Diplodia Blight – Ways to prevent your trees from contracting Diplodia blight include:
- Plant disease-free trees and shrubs
- Plant disease-resistant species
- Plant your trees far enough from others to maintain good airflow
- Eliminate overhead watering practices
- Care for your trees and encourage healthy growth (water, soil, fertilizer, etc.)
- Prune and cut with sanitized equipment
- Treat your trees preemptively against boring insects
When your tree is more than 25% infected, or the top portion of it has died, call a professional tree service to evaluate the damage and recommend a course of action. If you prune away a quarter of your tree, it will likely die. At this point, removal may be the only option to protect the rest of your landscape.
Cytospora Canker of Spruce
Leucostoma kunzei is the fungal pathogen responsible for this disease. Cytospora canker affects black, Oriental, white, Norway, and, most notably, Colorado blue spruce varieties. Cytospora canker occurs most often on mature landscape trees stressed by drought or poor care conditions.
Symptoms of Cytospora Canker – This disease is common among varieties of spruce trees. Signs that indicate a cytospora canker infection include:
- Lower branch dieback
- Poor growth
- Faded or brown needles
- Large amounts of resin flow on affected/dying branches
- Cut the branch to reveal reddish-brown soaked wood
- Small, black fruiting structures
Cytospora canker diseased trees, in decline, will often present the following additional indicators:
- Bark beetle infestation (confirmed by pitch tubes, boring dust, exit holes, galleries beneath the bark, and fast-paced decline from the top-down)
- Spruce spider mites (can cause severe damage)
- Pine needle scale
- Spruce bud scale
As the health of a diseased tree declines, it can be successfully attacked by multiple insect species, making its decline and death an accelerated process.
Treatment of Cytospora Canker – Once a cytospora canker infection is confirmed, the following management measures should be taken:
- Carefully pruning out diseased limbs is the only effective treatment for cytospora canker
- Prune in late winter or dry weather to prevent spreading the disease
- Destroy pruned, infected branches
Tip: Once a tree is infected with cytospora canker, fungicide sprays will have no effect on the disease and will not cure the affected tree.
Prevention of Cytospora Canker – Ways to prevent your trees from contracting cytospora canker include:
- Plant disease-free trees and shrubs
- Plant disease-resistant species
- Plant your trees far enough from others to maintain good airflow
- Care for your trees and encourage healthy growth (water, soil, fertilizer, etc.)
- Increase watering intervals during times of drought
- Have your trees inspected annually to detect any health or insect problems (spider mites, bagworms, etc.)
- Have severely infected trees (dying or dead) promptly removed and destroyed to slow the disease from spreading and eliminate breeding sites for boring insects
When your tree is infected by a disease and infested by boring insects, call a professional tree service to either treat or remove the tree.
Cercospora Blight of Junipers
Pseudo-Cercospora juniperi is the fungus responsible for this disease. Cercospora blight of junipers affects the Cupressaceae (cypress) family, which includes multiple species of junipers and redwoods. Cercospora blight spreads to young foliage in warm, wet weather and can cause a tree to show signs of infection within two to three weeks.
Symptoms of Cercospora Blight of Junipers – This disease is common among varieties of junipers, redwoods, arborvitae, and Eastern red cedar. Signs that indicate a Cercospora blight infection include:
- Lower branch dieback (foliage turns bronze or light brown then gray)
- Inner foliage death occurs first as the disease works outward then upward
- Small fuzzy fruiting structures appear on the dead foliage
Eventually, the dead foliage falls from the tree leaving the inner branches stripped of any foliage or twigs. In advanced cases, the outer foliage also dies off, leaving only the foliage at the very top of the tree.
It is the green (seemingly unaffected) foliage at the end of affected branches that differentiate this pathogen from other blight causing diseases that kill from the infection or canker site out to the tip.
Treatment of Cercospora Blight of Junipers – Once a Cercospora blight infection is confirmed, the following management measures should be taken:
- Apply a liquid or wettable powder fungicide (copper fungicides are recommended) to the lower branches of trees with minor infection evidence. Spray all of the tree’s foliage for heavily infected specimens. Spray the trees in the beginning, middle, and again at the end of the summer season.
- For trees with advanced symptoms of infection (fifty percent or more of the foliage), consider having the tree removed and destroyed to protect other trees on your landscape.
- Carefully remove and destroy dead foliage and twigs from beneath infected trees.
During periods of drought, eliminate all overhead or spray methods of watering. The spread of Cercospora blight depends partly on splashing water and warmth.
Prevention of Cercospora Blight of Junipers – Once a Cercospora blight infection is confirmed, the following preventative measures should be taken:
- Plant disease-free tree species
- Plant disease-resistant species
- Plant your trees far enough from others to maintain good airflow
- Care for your trees and encourage healthy growth (water, soil, fertilizer, etc.)
- Keep grass and shrubbery (surrounding the tree) cut low enough to permit free airflow
- Have your trees inspected annually for early detection of potential issues
Have heavily infected trees removed and destroyed by a professional tree service. As the tree’s health declines, it becomes a target for insect infestations and other infections.
Evergreen Tree Disease Identification
Part of an evergreen tree’s growth process includes the occasional needle or leaf drop. During times of drought, a tree may lose more of its foliage than normal, appearing to be sick.
Some insect infestations like bagworms, mites, beetles, and scale can cause chlorosis and leaf drop that appears to be an infection versus an infestation.
When you cannot positively identify whether or not your tree has contracted a disease, call a professional tree service to help you figure out what is happening.
How To Identify and Treat Evergreen Diseases
In this article, you discovered evergreen tree disease information, the symptoms to watch for, and how to treat pathogens that weaken and kill evergreens.
By knowing what to look for and how to treat tree diseases, you can take prompt action to either save your tree or have it removed.
When you ignore the signs of evergreen tree infections, you risk not only losing your tree but spreading the disease to other trees on your landscape.
Prevent your trees from becoming severe risks to your property and wellbeing. By knowing how to care for your trees, you can keep them thriving for decades.
fasttreeremovalatlanta.com gathered the following information to assist you in caring for your trees from the time you plant them until their maturity and beyond.
Tree Care – Planting
Placing “the right tree in the right place” is your first act of caring for your tree and will determine much of how the tree grows and whether you will have years of joy and shade or multiple problems and expenses. Consider the following information when selecting the species and location of your tree:
Tree Species – When selecting the species of the tree you’d like to plant, the following will help you choose the right species:
- Will the species tolerate your region’s hardiness zone?
- Is the species known for invasive roots?
- Is the tree an overstory or understory?
- Does the tree need full or partial sun?
- Is the tree tolerant to regional pests and diseases?
- Is the tree deciduous or evergreen?
To determine your USDA Hardiness Zone, visit planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/PHZMWeb/InteractiveMap.aspx
Tree Location – As a tree grows, it can’t get up and move if its location becomes inconvenient. When selecting a location to plant your tree, use the following to guide your decision:
- Are there power lines running over the location?
- Are there utility lines running under the location?
- Are there sidewalks, driveways, or structures nearby that could be damaged by invasive roots?
- Does the location receive full or partial sun?
- Is the location well-drained, or does water pool?
Read more about selecting a tree species and a location to plant it at fasttreeremovalatlanta.com/tree-planting-location-landscape-species
Tree Care – Watering
Lack of water can cause your tree to wilt, suffer hydraulic failure, and die. To keep your tree in outstanding health, there must be a regular watering schedule that meets the needs of the tree. The following will help you determine how often to water your tree:
- Water your tree three times per week
- One of the three should be a deep watering (this will encourage the roots to grow deep)
- Water the entire root plate (the root plate grows outward and is typically the same size as the tree’s crown)
- During times of drought or intense heat, give your tree two deep waterings per week
- When rainfall is plentiful, reduce the frequency of waterings
The soil around your tree must be well-drained. If water remains pooled after rainfall or waterings, your soil must be adjusted to allow proper draining. Reduce the frequency of waterings until the soil is improved.
Tip: The continuous application of organic mulch can help your soil structure maintain proper drainage properties.
Tree Care – Mulching
When organic mulch is applied correctly around your tree, it can improve soil quality and regulate both soil moisture and temperature. Consider the following when mulching your tree:
- Apply a layer of organic mulch 3 to 6 inches deep over the entire root plate
- Keep mulch pulled back 2 to 3 inches from the tree trunk and root flare (this will help prevent problems with decay, disease, and nesting wildlife)
- Fluff the mulch when it compresses and add more when necessary
- Remove and replace mulch when it becomes riddled with mold
Organic mulch can be from a compost pile, straw, or wood chips.
Tree Care – Fertilizing
At times, the soil around your tree may need to have its chemical composition and pH level adjusted.
For trees that grow in acidic soil, the pH level should be 6.5 or less, for those preferring a base soil, the level should be 7.5 or above. Soil with a pH of 7.0 (6.5 – 7.5) is considered neutral.
Soil pH levels can be adjusted using phosphoric acid or sulfur to make them more acidic. While limestone, organic mulch, or wood ash will reduce the soil’s acidity. Many brands of fertilizer contain one or a combination of the above to adjust soil pH levels.
Frequently, the missing or deficient element in soil is nitrogen, and as such, the vast majority of fertilizers contain it.
Read more about fertilizing trees at fasttreeremovalatlanta.com/fertilization-basics-healthier-trees
Tip: Tree fertilization should be done in fall (after the growing season) or late winter (before the beginning of the next growing season)
Tree Care – Pruning
Small tree branches can be pruned whenever they present problems at any time of the year. Large branches – branches comprising over 5-10% of the tree’s crown volume – should only be pruned in winter when the tree is dormant. Trees should never be pruned in autumn since the air is filled with diseases and decay fungi.
There are many reasons to cut tree limbs; they might be diseased or dead, they could be rubbing against other limbs, or they are competing with other branches and have to be removed.
Raising or thinning the canopy is another reason for limb removal. This is done to open the canopy to more sunlight or provide additional vertical clearance.
Read more about pruning and cutting trees at fasttreeremovalatlanta.com/when-tree-pruning-cutting-emergency-removal-atlanta-ga
Annual Tree Inspections
Your tree(s) should be inspected by a professional tree service annually to detect any problems with abnormal growth, infestations, or disease.
This type of inspection is also known as a tree hazard assessment. It is used by arborists to determine whether or not any actions should be taken to improve the health and safety of the tree.
There are times when the best course of action is to remove your tree. The following may require your tree to be removed to protect your landscape and surrounding trees:
- Boring insect infestations
- Infectious tree diseases
- Severe storm damage
- Severe root damage or rot
- Leaning tree
- Root damage to surrounding structures
If you suspect that your tree should be removed, contact a professional tree service to evaluate the situation and recommend the best course of action. Sometimes, the best way to care for your trees is to eliminate the ones that could compromise the health and vigor of the others.
Caring for Trees
In this article, you discovered many ways to care for your trees from the time you plant them until their maturity.
By promoting the health of your trees, you enable them to grow strong and resist attacks by disease and insects.
Neglecting the care of your trees will lead to abnormal growth and potential death by disease and infestation.
Avoid planting a tree that could damage your home’s foundation or disrupt your region’s ecosystem. By knowing which tree species to avoid planting, you can contribute to a diverse and healthy ecosystem.
fasttreeremovalatlanta.com gathered the following information about the dangers of planting invasive trees and which species to avoid.
What Are Invasive Trees
An invasive tree species is a species that can thrive, reproduce and spread, unaided, and at alarming speeds.
The definition may also apply to the root system of a tree species. Invasive tree roots spread far and are capable of causing structural damages to sidewalks, driveways, and foundations as they grow beneath them. Also considered invasive are those roots that invade and plug up water supply and sewage lines.
List of Invasive Tree Species
When selecting a tree for your yard or landscape, you can help preserve your native ecosystem by avoiding these following tree species (Unless native to or established in your region):
• African tuliptree (Spathodea campanulata)
• Alexandrian laurel (Calophyllum inophyllum)
• Amur chokecherry (Prunus maackii)
• Amur cork tree (Phellodendron amurense)
• Amur maple (Acer ginnala)
• Antilles Calophyllum (Calophyllum antillanum)
• Apple (Malus)
• Arabian coffee (Coffea arabica)
• Arizona cypress (Cupressus arizonica Greene)
• Asian nakedwood (Colubrina Asiatica)
• Athel tamarisk (Tamarix aphylla)
• Australian almond (Terminalia muelleri)
• Australian redcedar (Toona Ciliata Roemer)
• Australian tea tree (Leptospermum laevigatum)
• Australian-pine (Casuarina equisetifolia)
• Austrian pine (Pinus nigra Arnold)
• Avocado (Persea Americana)
• Balsam poplar (Populus balsamifera)
• Bee-bee tree (Tetradium daniellii)
• Bigtooth aspen (Populus grandidentata)
• Birch-leaf pear (Pyrus betulifolia Bunge)
• Black acacia (Acacia melanoxylon)
• Black locust (Robinia pseudoacacia)
• Black mangrove (Lumnitzera racemosa)
• Black peppermint (Eucalyptus salicifolia)
• Black wattle (Acacia mearnsii)
• Blackthorn (Prunus spinosa)
• Bottlebrush (Callistemon viminalis)
• Boxelder (Acer negundo)
• Bradford pear (Pyrus calleryana)
• Bristly locust (Robinia hispida)
• Cabbage tree (Cordyline australis)
• California privet (Ligustrum ovalifolium)
• Camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora)
• Carrotwood (Cupaniopsis anacardioides)
• Castor aralia (Kalopanax septemlobus)
• Castor bean (Ricinus communis)
• Ceara rubber tree (Manihot glaziovii)
• Cherry laurel (Prunus laurocerasus)
• Cherry plum (Prunus cerasifera)
• Chilean jessamine (Cestrum parqui)
• Chinaberry (Melia azedarach)
• Chinese Banyan (Ficus microcarpa)
• Chinese catalpa (Catalpa ovata)
• Chinese crab apple (Malus hupehensis)
• Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia)
• Chinese fir (Cunninghamia lanceolata)
• Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta)
• Chinese privet (Ligustrum sinense)
• Chinese tallow tree (Triadica sebifera)
• Common filbert (Corylus avellana)
• Common hawthorn (Crataegus monogyna)
• Common pear (Pyrus communis)
• Cooper’s Cyathea (Cyathea cooperi)
• Coulter pine (Pinus coulteri)
• Council tree (Ficus altissima)
• Crabapple (Malus)
• Crack willow (Salix fragilis)
• Crapemyrtle (Lagerstroemia indica)
• Date palm (Phoenix dactylifera)
• Deodar cedar (Cedrus deodara)
• Devil tree (Alstonia macrophylla)
• Douglas-fir (Pseudotsuga menziesii)
• Earleaf acacia (Acacia auriculiformis)
• Eastern cottonwood (Populus deltoides)
• Eastern redcedar (Juniperus virginiana)
• Eastern white pine (Pinus strobus)
• Fig (Ficus carica)
• English elm (Ulmus procera)
• English holly (Ilex aquifolium)
• English oak (Quercus robur)
• European aspen (Populus tremula)
• European birch (Betula pendula)
• Firetree (Morella faya)
• Flamegold (Koelreuteria elegans)
• Forest redgum (Eucalyptus tereticornis)
• Fountain palm (Livistona Chinensis)
• French tamarisk (Tamarix gallica)
• Glossy buckthorn (Frangula Alnus)
• Glossy privet (Ligustrum lucidum)
• Glossy shower (Senna surattensis)
• Golden rain tree (Koelreuteria paniculata)
• Governor’s plum (Flacourtia indica)
• Gray dogwood (Cornus racemosa)
• Gray poplar (Populus x canescens)
• Guava (Psidium guajava)
• Hedge maple (Acer campestre)
• Hedionda macho (Senna septemtrionalis)
• Horse chestnut (Aesculus hippocastanum)
• Incense-cedar (Calocedrus decurrens)
• Indian rosewood (Dalbergia sissoo)
• Indian rubber plant (Ficus elastica)
• Italian stone pine (Pinus pinea)
• Japanese angelica (Aralia elata)
• Japanese cedar (Cryptomeria japonica)
• Japanese cork tree (Phellodendron japonicum)
• Japanese holly (Ilex crenata)
• Japanese maple (Acer palmatum)
• Japanese privet (Ligustrum japonicum)
• Japanese yew (Taxus cuspidata)
• Java plum (Syzygium cumini)
• Jeffrey pine (Pinus jeffreyi)
• Karaka nut (Corynocarpus laevigatus)
• Large gray willow (Salix cinerea)
• Laurel willow (Salix pentandra)
• Lavalle cork tree (Phellodendron lavallei)
• Lemon (Citrus x Limon)
• Lime (Citrus x Aurantiifolia)
• Lombardy poplar (Populus nigra)
• Mango (Mangifera indica)
• Maritime pine (Pinus pinaster)
• Mayten (Maytenus boaria)
• Melaleuca (Melaleuca quinquenervia)
• Mimosa (Albizia julibrissin)
• Monterey cypress (Cupressus macrocarpa)
• Monterey pine (Pinus radiata)
• Mountain ebony (Bauhinia variegata)
• Northern catalpa (Catalpa speciosa)
• Norway maple (Acer platanoides)
• Norway spruce (Picea abies)
• Octopus tree (Schefflera actinophylla)
• Ohio buckeye (Aesculus glabra)
• Oleander (Nerium oleander)
• Olive (Olea europaea)
• Orange (Citrus x Sinensis)
• Osage-orange (Maclura pomifera)
• Papaya (Carica papaya)
• Paper-mulberry (Broussonetia papyrifera)
• Plum (Prunus domestica)
• Plume albizia (Paraserianthes lophantha)
• Plum leaf crabapple (Malus prunifolia)
• Poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima)
• Pomegranate (Punica granatum)
• Ponderosa pine (Pinus ponderosa)
• Portugal laurel (Prunus lusitanica)
• Prickly-ash (Zanthoxylum americanum)
• Princess tree (Paulownia tomentosa)
• Quaking aspen (Populus tremuloides)
• Queen palm (Syagrus romanzoffiana)
• Red bead tree (Adenanthera pavonina)
• Redbox (Eucalyptus polyanthemos)
• Redosier dogwood (Cornus sericea)
• River redgum (Eucalyptus camaldulensis)
• Rose glory bower (Clerodendrum bungei)
• Rose myrtle (Rhodomyrtus tomentosa)
• Rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus)
• Saltcedar (Tamarix ramosissima)
• Sawtooth oak (Quercus acutissima)
• Scots pine (Pinus sylvestris)
• Sea hibiscus (Talipariti tiliaceum)
• Siberian elm (Ulmus pumila)
• Silk oak (Grevillea robusta)
• Smooth sumac (Rhus glabra)
• Sour cherry (Prunus cerasus)
• Sour orange (Citrus x Aurantium)
• Southern catalpa (Catalpa bignonioides)
• Stickbush (Clerodendrum chinense)
• Strawberry guava (Psidium cattleianum)
• Sugar gum (Eucalyptus cladocalyx)
• Surinam cherry (Eugenia uniflora)
• Swamp mahogany (Eucalyptus robusta)
• Sweet cherry (Prunus avium)
• Sycamore maple (Acer pseudoplatanus)
• Tall lodgepole pine (Pinus contorta)
• Tree-of-heaven (Ailanthus altissima)
• Tropical almond (Terminalia catappa)
• Trumpet tree (Cecropia palmata)
• Tung oil tree (Vernicia fordii)
• Vinegar tree (Lophostemon confertus)
• Wayfaring tree (Viburnum lantana)
• Weeping willow (Salix babylonica)
• White lead tree (Leucaena leucocephala)
• White mulberry (Morus alba)
• White poplar (Populus alba)
• White willow (Salix alba)
• Willow (Salix spp.)
• Woman’s tongue (Albizia lebbeck)
Note: Native tree species have not evolved alongside these trees and have difficulty competing with them.
To learn how to select the proper planting location and tree species, visit fasttreeremovalatlanta.com/tree-planting-location-landscape-species
In this article, you discovered information about invasive tree species and the dangers they pose to native ecosystems.
When you avoid planting invasive tree species, you are protecting the native ecosystem of your region.
By planting non-native, invasive tree species, you are recklessly endangering the ecological integrity and biological diversity of your region.
Your dead or dying trees could become severe hazards capable of causing catastrophic damage to your property. Knowing why your trees are getting sick and dying will help you take action to either save them or remove them.
fasttreeremovalatlanta.com gathered the following information to help you uncover the many reasons your trees may appear to be dying or already dead and what to do with them.
What Is Making My Trees Sick?
Your trees may be under stress or dying from a variety of conditions. For some of the following, the situation can be reversed, for others, tree removal may be necessary for the protection of the surrounding trees and landscape:
Drought – Trees are capable of resisting disease-causing organisms and insect infestations when they are sufficiently hydrated. During times of drought, trees, shrubs, and plants use up water stored in the soil.
If this water is not replenished, trees will begin to display the following signs:
• Unseasonal leaf drop
• Insect infestation
• Fungal growth
It is essential to note that the above signs of illness or infestation typically appear after years of stress being applied to a tree’s health.
Unseasonable Heat – With global average temperatures on the rise and in many regions, longer summer seasons, heat may cause trees to lose the ability to evaporate enough water to cool their leaves.
When trees cannot meet their cooling needs, the result is leaf damage and additional stress to the tree’s health. This condition often causes early leaf drop in deciduous species and mortality in conifers.
Note: In small doses over long periods, trees are extremely capable of adapting to evolving conditions. However, at the rate temperatures are on the rise globally, trees are unable to keep up. Those trees found on the cusp of their hardiness zone are usually the first to develop symptoms of “overheating”.
Boring Insects – These insects have mastered their attack on trees to the point that by the time you recognize signs of infestation, the insects have likely moved on to a new host. Boring insects like beetles tend to successfully attack trees already stressed by heat, drought, and other factors. Signs of a boring insect infestation include:
• Entry/Exit holes in the trunk, branches, or stems
• Foliage wilting or loss on specific branches or stems
• Branch or stem death on an otherwise healthy-looking tree
• Visual identification of the insect
Due to the destructive nature of boring insects, an arborist must be hired to inspect the tree, perform a hazard assessment, and evaluate the risk to the surrounding environment.
Read more about beetle damage and treatment at fasttreeremovalatlanta.com/ambrosia-beetle-damage-treatment
Disease – When trees are infected by a disease, they can take years to show symptoms, and by then, it may be too late to save the tree. This depends on the health of the tree when it was successfully attacked, the tree’s capacity to compartmentalize diseased tissue, and how the tree was infected.
Pathogens that attack trees through their roots are fast-acting and can cause hydraulic failure and death in a fraction of the time others may take.
Diseases that frequently attack trees include:
• Armillaria root rot
• Dothistroma needle blight
• Oak wilt
• Phytophthora diseases
• Blight diseases
• Cytospora (Cankers)
Some pathogens like the ambrosia fungi are carried from tree to tree by boring insects. If successfully attacked, the tree now hosts a boring insect infestation and the disease it brought with it. Coupled with an already weakened state, such trees are likely to show symptoms, decline, and die fairly quickly.
Note: Tree roots weakened/stunted by drought or root rot (poorly drained soil) are most susceptible to successful pathogen attacks, such as Armillaria root rot.
Poor Tree Care – In some instances, a tree’s health can be weakened by the actions meant to boost its health. Consider the following:
• Poor pruning practices
• Using unsterilized equipment
• Water-logging the soil
• Herbicide application (to kill weeds) too close to the root plate or on the tree
• Volcano mulching
Read more about tree pruning, cutting, and removal at fasttreeremovalatlanta.com/when-tree-pruning-cutting-emergency-removal-atlanta-ga
When a tree suddenly dies, it is likely due to multiple factors (drought, infestation, disease, unseasonable heat, etc.) causing hydraulic failure within the tree. Visit fasttreeremovalatlanta.com/how-do-i-know-if-my-tree-dying to discover what other signs to watch for when a tree’s health is declining.
Trees Eventually Die
For as much as we love and care for our trees, they are not immortal. It is normal for trees to grow old and die. Many fruit trees have a lifespan limited to decades, while some species may persist for hundreds or thousands of years. You can give your tree its best shot at a long life by:
• Planting an appropriate species for the region
• Planting it well within its hardiness zone
• Planting it in the right location*
• Providing the correct balance of nutrients
• Providing sufficient water (especially in times of drought)
• Using proper organic mulching techniques
• Using proper pruning methods with sterilized equipment
* The importance of planting a tree in the proper location cannot be overstated. The roots need space to grow and develop unobstructed. The tree’s canopy should be free from obstruction (especially from any power lines above).
If and when the time comes to have your tree removed, call a professional tree service to have it safely brought down, especially if it is infested or diseased. This will help you save any neighboring trees, shrubs, and plants from being infected or infested by whatever killed your tree.
My Trees Are Dying
In this article, you discovered several reasons that can lead to the death of your tree(s), and what to do with them.
By recognizing the signs of disease and infestation, and taking action, you can potentially save your tree. At the very least, you can make informed decisions on what needs to be done.
When you ignore the signs of an ailing tree, you place your property, vehicles, and even your well-being at grave risk if the tree topples.
Are you concerned about the meaning and impact of dead branches on your tree? By knowing how and when to cut dead branches off of your tree, you can help it remain healthy and vibrant.
fasttreeremovalatlanta.com gathered the following tips and information about cutting dead branches off of your tree and the impact it can have on your tree’s health.
Does Cutting Off Dead Branches Help a Tree?
Yes, cutting off or pruning dead branches helps a tree in a multitude of ways. The act of pruning dead branches and growth also adds to the safety of the tree and its surroundings.
When Is The Right Time To Prune Branches
The right time to prune branches depends on which ones you are pruning and for what reason. For dead, dying, or broken branches, observe the following:
• There is no wrong time. Dead or dying branches pose a considerable health risk to the tree and should be removed when detected.
• When a branch dies, there is no sap running through it, thus minimizing the risk of oozing sap after its removal.
Tip: When removing an entire branch, alive or dead, it should be pruned all the way back to the branch collar (the bulging bark where the branch meets the trunk). The cut should be made flat and smooth without causing damage to the branch collar, which will eventually move in over the wound and seal it.
For live branches, the rules change:
• To remove or prune live and healthy branches, it is recommended to do so at the end of the growing season, during a tree’s dormancy cycle, or before budding at the beginning of the next growing season.
• This pruning may be done to shape the tree, thin the crown, encourage new spring growth, and many other reasons.
• Pruning these branches during the growing season can invite a host of insects and disease to the tree, potentially leading to compromised health and the eventual death of the tree.
Tip: Uncover further information about the right time(s) to prune your trees by reading fasttreeremovalatlanta.com/when-tree-pruning-cutting-emergency-removal-atlanta-ga
Tree Safety Concerns
As a branch dies, all of the twigs attached to it and the branch itself will become a hazard to whatever is below it. Dead limbs will:
• Rot from the smaller diameter parts first
• As the larger diameter parts rot, they begin to fall
• Injure other limbs as they fall
• Become a substantial threat to whatever is below, as some may weigh several hundred pounds
When these limbs are located over driveways, garages, sheds, and homes, they are capable of causing catastrophic damages and should be removed promptly.
Tip: Once per month, take the time to examine your tree canopy. Be on the lookout for dying, dead, or rotting branches. Once identified, look below it to see what may be in the path of the limb if/when it falls.
Tree Disease and Insect Infestation Concerns
Over several millennia, trees have developed magnificent defensive systems against insect infestations and disease. However, a dead branch is a defenseless open invitation to insects and diseases.
While the healthy parts of the tree can effectively repel these intruders, all it takes is a single successful attack to compromise the health of the rest of the tree.
Tip: If you detect carpenter ants, beetles, mushrooms, or any strange growth on a dying or dead branch, contact a professional tree service. They can evaluate the situation and recommend a course of action to remedy the situation.
Why Does My Tree Have Dead Branches?
As a tree grows, there are many reasons that a particular branch may die while the rest of the tree flourishes. The following are some of the reasons a tree may have dead branches:
1. The branch may not get enough sunlight. This may trigger the tree to compartmentalize and eventually shed the branch.
2. There may be an insect infestation in that branch which has compromised the flow of water and nutrients (hydraulic failure).
3. Bark damage on the trunk may also cause hydraulic failure and the death of the branch.
4. Rope and wire used to hang swings, bird feeders, clotheslines, etc. may damage the branch bark enough to girdle the branch, causing hydraulic failure.
5. Severe weather events may cause a branch to crack. This damage may not be apparent until the branch begins to die.
6. Many diseases may cause individual branches, entire sections, or the whole tree to die. Many of these diseases enter the tree through the root system, while others can infect damaged bark or poorly pruned branches.
Tip: When a branch, two inches in diameter or greater, dies on an otherwise healthy tree, call a professional tree service. They can fully evaluate the tree and recommend a course of action (if required).
Help Your Tree By Removing Dead Branches
In this article, you discovered why dead branches should be removed from your tree, tips to help you do it right, and the impact pruning or cutting branches can have on your tree’s health.
By taking action when dead branches are identified, you minimize the many risks they pose to the tree and its surroundings.
When you allow dying or dead branches to remain in a tree, you subsequently expose the tree to infestation and disease while creating a hazard for people, objects, and structures below.
extension.unl.edu/statewide/platte/Tree Pruning FAQs.pdf
You can plant, grow, and care for hardy giant hibiscus with ease. This fast-growing species is easy to plant and grow as a privacy screen, large shrub, or small tree.
fasttreeremovalatlanta.com gathered the following information on the hardy giant hibiscus species, planting, growing, and care tips, and its susceptibility to insects and diseases.
Hardy Giant Hibiscus Planting and Maintenance
This shrub could easily be considered one of the easiest to plant and maintain. The species is tolerant of a variety of soils and pH levels. When planting a giant hibiscus, use the following as a guide:
• Plant during early spring or fall
• Species can be planted in full sun or partial shade garden spots, groupings, or inline as hedges/screens
• The species can handle areas with constant or strong wind
• Plant in well-drained sandy, loam, or clay soil
• The hole should be as deep as the root ball and three times as wide
• Add compost and mulch immediately after planting
• Water regularly, increasing the number of waterings during periods of drought
The following will help you keep your specimen growing healthy:
• Add compost and mulch each spring
• Prune only in late winter or early spring (before new growth emerges)
• Cut back old, weak, or dead branches (encourages new growth and larger flowers)
• Continue a regular watering schedule with increased intervals when rainfall is below one-inch per week.
Hardy Giant Hibiscus Species Information
Tree Name – Rose of Sharon (aka Giant Hibiscus or Shrub Althea)
Scientific Name/Species – Hibiscus syriacus
Family – Malvaceae
Genus – Hibiscus
Nickname(s) – Korean rose (South Korea), Rose of Sharon (North America), Syrian Ketmia, Shrub Althea, and Rose Mallow (in the UK).
National Flower – South Korea.
Hibiscus in History – This species is mentioned in the Bible’s Song of Solomon (2:1-2)
Lifespan – Can live up to 50 years or more when planted in optimal conditions.
Type – Deciduous.
Hardiness Zone(s) – from zone 5b to zone 9a
Soil Requirements – Prefers well-drained, slightly acidic to acidic, moist, rich, and fertile soil with full sun exposure.
Planting Spacing – 2 to 3ft apart to create a hedge.
Watering Requirements – Regular when young or planted. Minimal after that.
Height – 8 to 12ft on average
DBH – Grows multiple trunks unless pruned to create a single-trunked specimen tree.
Crown Span – 6 to 10ft or more at maturity.
Root Spread – Located just below the soil and may spread far beyond the tree’s canopy.
Uses in Landscaping – Rose of Sharon can be planted as a tall hedge/screen, pruned to be a single-trunked specimen tree, or planted as a garden border.
Winter/Fall Colors – Yellow before leaf-drop in the fall.
Flowers – Mature, healthy specimens can bloom continuously from late spring through early fall. Its five-petaled bell-shaped flowers (up to three inches in diameter) in white, red, purple, violet, mauve, or blue, or in dual colors with a different colored throat, depending on the cultivar. Extending from the base of the flower’s five petals is a pistil at the center, with the stamen around it.
If you’re looking for other colorful plants, check out these blooming shrubs – fasttreeremovalatlanta.com/5-blooming-shrubs-landscape-garden
Hardy Giant Hibiscus Pest and Disease Problems
The Hibiscus syriacus species have problems with very few pests or diseases, they are vigorous and highly resistant when planted in optimal conditions. The pests that can pose a problem are:
• Japanese Beetles
• Spider Mites
Some of the diseases that may attack the species include:
• Powdery Mildew
• Gray Mold
• Leaf Spots
These pests and diseases can be treated with commercially available sprays and dusts. However, the following will help prevent contamination and spreading of pathogens:
• Planting disease- and pest-resistant species
• Avoiding overhead watering
• Allowing sufficient air circulation around and through the plant
• Deadheading spent flowers (removing them)
• Removing dead, infested, or diseased plant material
Read more about disease prevention for trees and shrubs at fasttreeremovalatlanta.com/5-tree-shrub-disease-prevention-tips
Note: Upon the detection or suspicion of any beetle infestation, it is highly recommended to call a professional tree service to evaluate the situation and recommend a swift course of action.
Hardy Giant Hibiscus
In this article, you discovered information about the hardy giant hibiscus (rose of Sharon) species, how to plant and care for it, and the insects and diseases that adversely affect it.
By correctly planting and caring for your giant Hibiscus plants, you are providing the species with what it needs to flourish for decades.
By ignoring or overlooking signs of infestation or disease, you may allow insects and disease to weaken the health of your Rose of Sharon, and eventually kill them.
The original post Planting, Growing, and Caring for Hardy Giant Hibiscus (Rose of Sharon) appeared first on http://www.fasttreeremovalatlanta.com
You can prevent your cut Christmas tree from dying prematurely. By taking a few simple steps, you can make it last weeks longer than expected. With some easy care, a cut tree can stay fresh and beautiful while lasting well into the new year.
fasttreeremovalatlanta.com gathered the best care tips to keep your live Christmas tree from drying out, looking ugly, and becoming a fire hazard.
Buying A Healthy Christmas Tree
Caring for a live Christmas tree starts with the selection of a healthy tree. If you choose to buy a tree from a roadside lot, a pop-up lot, or a garden store, the tree has likely traveled a great distance and been exposed to drying wind and sun throughout its journey.
To get the freshest tree possible, look up the nearest Christmas tree farm or “Cut your own” tree farm. In either case, the following tips will help you select the ideal Christmas tree:
• Select from trees in shady areas. Cut trees exposed to the sun will have already lost significant moisture.
• Look for a robust, full, and green tree with minimal brown needles.
• Feel the branches. The needles should feel pliable and the branches flexible.
• Inspect the tree branches and needles for insects and boring insect holes in the trunk.
• Lift the tree and drop it on its trunk. Minimal needles should fall from the tree.
• Have the vendor mechanically shake the tree to get rid of dead or dried needles.
• Have the vendor cut one inch off the bottom of the trunk and wrap it (if you have the tools at home to do this safely, wait until you get home).
Tip: When transporting your tree, it should be wrapped and protected as much as possible from the wind and sun. If you are going to tie it to the top of a vehicle, the trunk should be facing forward to avoid stressing the branches and needles.
Watering Your Christmas Tree
The most significant help you can give your tree is making sure it has water to “drink.” Display your tree in a reservoir type stand, this is the most effective way of maintaining its freshness and minimizing needle loss. The following will help you keep your tree adequately watered throughout the holiday season:
• The trunk should be cut straight across for maximum water absorption.
• The stand should fit your tree. Don’t whittle the sides or remove the bark to make it fit, as this removes the xylem and phloem needed to absorb water.
• The stand should be filled with 1 quart of water per inch of trunk diameter and maintained at this level with the base of the trunk fully submerged.
• Check the water level daily to ensure that it does not fall below the base of the tree.
• Use plain, room-temperature tap water.
If you choose not to set the tree up in the house immediately, you can store it in a cool, dark place, like your garage. Place the base of the tree in water to keep it fresh.
Note: When a cut tree doesn’t drink water, it is likely due to dried resin (sap) where the trunk was cut. In most cases, this is resolved by making another cut, one inch above the original cut, and getting the tree into water immediately after making the cut.
Choosing Your Christmas Tree Location
By safeguarding your Christmas tree from heat sources, you can significantly slow the tree’s drying process. Some common heat sources to avoid include:
• Space Heaters
• Heat Vents
• Direct Sunlight
• Ceiling or Wall-Mounted Light Fixtures
Tip: By lowering the average room temperature by a few degrees, you can slow down the drying process. The tree, in turn, will consume less water.
Decorating Your Christmas Tree
When you decorate your tree, avoid piling on the decorations. The following will guide you through the decorating process for a safer and more stable tree.
Christmas Tree Lighting – Use lights that produce minimal heat. Miniature lights and led lights will reduce the drying of the tree significantly.
Before putting anything electrical on the tree, inspect all of the wiring. If you find loose connections or frayed wires that are not easily repaired, discard, and replace them.
Do not allow any wiring, lights, or electronic decorations near the base of the tree. Water and electricity can be a deadly combination.
Avoid overloading electrical circuits and outlets. If your tree lights are not on a timer, be sure to turn them off when leaving your home or going to bed.
Tip: A popular method of Christmas tree lighting includes wrapping one strand of lights deep in the tree (close to the trunk) and a second strand weaving from the middle to the extremities of the tree. Led lights make this lighting method possible without accelerating the drying process.
Christmas Tree Decorations – Use lightweight decorations that hook or fasten to branches easily. As a general rule, if an ornament causes a branch to sag or bend over, it is too heavy for that branch.
As your tree ages and dries, its branches may become brittle and unable to support the weight of heavy ornaments.
Tip: Larger or heavier ornaments should be fastened to the lower branches of the tree. Those branches are sturdier and can handle a heavier load. If the ornament causes those branches to bend, repurpose the ornament or put it away till next year.
Taking Down Your Christmas Tree
When the holidays are over, and you decide to take your tree down, the question becomes; What do I do with it? The following are recycling and disposal ideas for your consideration:
• Most municipalities across the country offer Christmas tree pickup services or recycling programs that begin after Christmas and run through mid to late January. Check your city’s or disposal service’s website for pickup times and further instructions.
• Add the tree to your compost pile. You may need to cut it into small segments.
• Cut off the branches and lay them flat in garden beds as mulch. By mid to late spring, the needles will have fallen off, and the twigs can be added to your compost pile.
• Submerge the tree in a pond (if you have access and permission to do so). The slowly decomposing tree will provide years of added structure to the pond and become a feeding refuge for fish.
• Turn the tree into a bird feeder. Place the tree in the garden or corner of your landscape and decorate it with strung popcorn and/or peanut butter and birdseed covered pinecones. Local birds will use the tree for refuge while migrating birds may use it for a resting location.
Tip: If your tree dries out and becomes brittle at any time, carefully remove all of the decorations and lighting, and remove it from your home. Once your tree has dried out, it becomes an extreme fire hazard.
Live Christmas Tree Care
In this article, you discovered care tips to prolong your cut Christmas tree’s freshness, how to keep it beautifully decorated, and prevent it from becoming a fire hazard.
By taking simple measures to keep your live Christmas tree fresh, you can maximize your investment and enjoy the beauty of your tree well into the new year.
Your inaction could lead to your tree drying out, becoming a fire hazard, and causing a deadly house fire.
Don’t let your tree die when its leaves start turning black. Knowing what causes leaves to turn black and drop can help you spring into action, saving your tree and protecting your landscape.
fasttreeremovalatlanta.com gathered the information why, and steps to take when your tree’s leaves start turning black and falling off your tree.
Why Do Tree Leaves Turn Black?
There are many reasons your tree’s leaves can turn black and fall off the tree. The following are some of the more probable causes:
Hot Weather and Drought – During times of drought, trees are more susceptible to being damaged by radical changes in temperature.
Sudden rises in temperature can leach the moisture out of your trees and cause its leaves to wither, brown, and blacken.
While it isn’t feasible to control the weather, you can help your trees survive radical temperature fluctuations by doing the following:
• Increase the frequency of deep watering
• Decrease the amount of fertilizer applied
• Mulch your trees
During times of drought coupled with high temperatures, your tree’s internal processes speed up. Over-fertilizing may cause your trees to consume more nutrients than they can process, causing fertilizer burn and hastening their death.
Learn more about how to fertilize trees by reading fasttreeremovalatlanta.com/fertilization-basics-healthier-trees
Boring Insect Infestations – When trees are stressed by hot weather, disease, or poor care practices, they become highly susceptible to successful insect attacks. Namely, beetle attacks.
Beetle infestations often result in leaf wilt, severe defoliation, and the blackening of the leaves. When a tree or stand of trees falls victim to a beetle infestation, treatment must begin immediately to slow or halt an infestation of epidemic proportions.
Some of the signs of a successful beetle infestation include:
• Unseasonal leaf color change
• Premature leaf drop
• Crown wilting
• Blackening of the foliage
• Entry holes
• Sawdust found on limbs and trunk
Infested trees are challenging to treat without killing the tree itself, and should be left to a tree professional. However, unaffected trees in the vicinity should be treated with insecticides to deter beetle attacks.
Ash trees are highly vulnerable to the deadly emerald ash borer. However, when their foliage blackens, it is more likely from an anthracnose infection than the borer.
NOTE: It is common practice to remove and destroy heavily beetle-infested trees to protect a wooded area or stand of healthy trees. In some instances, uninfected diseased trees that have become susceptible to beetle infestations may also be removed to prevent the spread of the beetle.
The ambrosia beetle is another boring insect that affects many tree species throughout North America. Learn more about the damage it causes and how to treat an infestation by reading fasttreeremovalatlanta.com/ambrosia-beetle-damage-treatment
Anthracnose Tree Disease – This disease is often referred to as leaf spot or leaf blight. It may be caused by several different fungi. The following are some of the common symptoms indicating that your tree is infected:
• Irregular dead spots on leaves
• Formation of cankers on twigs, branches, and the trunk
• Wilting and blackening of affected foliage
• Premature leaf drop
• Bud death (resembling frost damage)
Treatment for anthracnose includes the systematic application of fungicides in late winter and early spring, and the extensive pruning of affected areas of the tree.
Diseases like anthracnose are easily transmitted from one tree to another, usually by splashing water, overhead watering, and rainwater. Another common form of transmission is through the gardening and pruning tools used for your landscaping. Read about disease prevention tips at fasttreeremovalatlanta.com/5-tree-shrub-disease-prevention-tips
NOTE: Any time more than 25% of a tree’s crown must be pruned, call in a professional tree service to evaluate the health of the tree and potential alternatives to pruning.
Anthracnose is rarely lethal to mature trees. Still, repeated annual infections can cause the decline of the tree’s health, leading to infestations, disease, and the eventual death of the tree.
For more information on identifying and managing anthracnose, visit ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7420.html
Tree Health and Disease Prevention
There are insecticides, fertilizers, and fungicides that can be applied throughout the year to protect your trees. However, the most effective measure to take in preventing your trees from withering in the heat, succumbing to boring insects, or contracting lethal diseases is to promote their health relentlessly.
The following are measures you can take to promote the healthy growth of your trees:
• Conduct annual soil tests to determine nutrient deficiencies and pH adjustments
• Adjust your watering schedule to keep the soil moist but well-drained
• Maintain organic mulch over the root plate throughout the year
• Correctly prune your trees to encourage spring growth
• Have your trees and landscape inspected annually by a professional tree service to detect any potential issues.
Your vigilance in keeping your trees healthy is perhaps their greatest ally in reaching maturity and living their lives pest and disease-free.
When Tree Leaves Turn Black
In this article, you discovered why tree leaves can turn black, and the steps you can take to help your tree recover and prevent future occurrences.
When problems arise, and they will, your immediate response is fundamental to the preservation of a robust landscape filled with healthy trees.
Your inaction or indifference will result in the decline of your tree’s health, its eventual death, and the potential to fall on your property or cause severe injuries.
Avoid cutting down a healthy tree because of a misguided diagnosis. Wetwood is a common condition that could lead to grave tree health problems but is more beneficial than you might think.
fasttreeremovalatlanta.com gathered information on wetwood and slime flux, how to identify them, and how these conditions affect trees.
What Is Wetwood?
Wetwood is a bacterial condition occurring commonly within the heartwood and/or sapwood of certain tree species, primarily in:
• Birches (Betula)
• Poplars (Populus)
• Sycamores (Platanus Occidentalis)
• Maples (Acer)
• Boxelders (Acer Negundo)
• Ash (Fraxinus)
• Aspens (Populus Tremuloides)
• Elms (Ulmus)
• Cottonwoods (Populus)
• Oaks (Quercus)
• Firs (Abies)
• Hemlocks (Tsuga)
• Willows (Salix)
Traditionally viewed as a nuisance or a disease, wetwood is more of a symbiosis in which the tree creates favorable conditions for any one or combination of numerous bacteria to flourish.
Many of the tree species in which wetwood occurs do not have decay fighting extractives and would be highly vulnerable to fungal infections without the occurrence of the bacteria.
This bacterial growth creates unfavorable conditions for harmful pulp-consuming fungi by lowering the oxygen content of the wood while producing inhibitory organic acids.
The organic acids produced by the bacteria are responsible for the odor associated with wetwood, and slime flux (the liquid that leaks or oozes from the tree).
Bacterial Wetwood and Slime Flux
When a tree with wetwood is wounded, the fluids produced by the bacteria and the tree’s sap will ooze from the wound. Thus, the appearance that the tree is leaking water. The following are essential to know before breaking out the pruning gear:
Bacteria By-Product – Within the tree, the fluids produced by the tree’s heartwood and by the bacteria are clear or opaque. Once exposed to the air, they take on a darker appearance, leaving blackened streaks running down the bark.
During the lifecycle of the bacteria, gases are produced, which cause pressure to build up within the tree. Over time, the pressure-driven fluids find an exit path through wounds, cracked bark, storm damage, or boring insect attacks. It is common to see several streaks.
This fluid is acidic, smells sour, attracts a variety of insects, and can quickly damage the tree’s bark. If not neutralized, it can eventually eat through the bark and away at the tree’s trunk leaving a gaping hole in the tree (see treatment measures below).
Trees with wetwood are notorious for spraying or squirting this putrid-smelling fluid when pruning cuts are made.
A crucial aspect of tree health is knowing when to prune, cut, or even remove your trees. Learn more about the process and timing at fasttreeremovalatlanta.com/when-tree-pruning-cutting-emergency-removal-atlanta-ga
Slime Flux without Wetwood – A tree without wetwood may still produce black ooze, white foam, or slime flux when it is wounded or poorly pruned and the exiting sap is contaminated by any of the wetwood causing bacteria.
The potential for this scenario underscores the need to work with sanitized equipment whenever working from tree to tree.
Equipment Treatment – All equipment used to prune or handle a tree with wetwood or slime flux should be sanitized using a 5 part water to 1 part bleach solution.
When Should I Call a Tree Service – As soon as you detect the symptoms of slime flux, call in a professional to evaluate the tree and what – if any – actions should be taken.
Slime Flux Treatment
There is no cure for bacterial wetwood. However, slime flux can and should be treated to prevent severe bark damage to your tree. To neutralize the bacteria and acidic properties of the fluids oozing from your tree, follow these steps:
1 – Mix 1 part bleach to 10 parts water and spray the affected areas of the tree. This solution is a more diluted version of the one used to sanitize your equipment.
2 – Apply the bleach solution once per week for four or more weeks.
3 – Discontinue using the bleach solution when you detect that the tree is healing and stops ejecting fluids.
While you have a tree leaking or oozing these fluids, keep the other trees and shrubs in your yard healthy and disease-free. Read more about tree and shrub disease prevention at fasttreeremovalatlanta.com/5-tree-shrub-disease-prevention-tips
My Tree Is Oozing Sap
In this article, you discovered how wetwood and slime flux can make your tree appear to be leaking water, how to identify them correctly, and when to call a tree service for assistance.
By taking preventative and control measures, you can stop your tree from oozing the putrid-smelling fluid produced from bacterial wetwood.
Without taking action to control slime flux, you are creating the potential for insect infestations, fungal infections, declining health, and the eventual death of your tree.